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Neil’s 10 favourite dishes of 2012

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We like this little exercise. Take 1 chef. Send him around the world to eat and report back. Ok, so it wasn’t quite like that, and yeah yeah we know, tough gig but someone has to do it right?

The boss visited a plethora of countries, cities, villages, restaurants in 2012 and here is his low down on the best hand to mouth experiences of the year, just out in Qantas’ The Australian Way magazine January issue. This blog post comes with a warning…do not read on an empty stomach! 

Last year I dined my way around the world, taking in LA, New York and London, as well as Sydney and Melbourne. What rocked my tastebuds was time spent in Rome, Parma and Piedmont. Price is not always an indicator of quality, and some of my most memorable experiences were in humble establishments. I was also fortunate to visit (in some cases, revisit) a selection of fine-dining restaurants with impeccable service to match. So, what were the 10 best dishes of my year and where were they served?

Conch at Flower Drum, Melbourne

Two years ago, my favourite Flower Drum dish was the pigeon; last year it was the mud crab. This time, I couldn’t go past the conch, cooked quickly and served with shrimp paste and crunchy asparagus. The conch’s tender top has the texture of abalone while its “foot” is perfectly crisp. The long taste of the sea and I’m in heaven.

Gelato fior di latte at Parma Rotta, Parma

Made from milk and cream, but no eggs, this gelato-like dish is all milky sweetness and smooth-as-silk texture. Hands-down, it’s the best ice-cream I’ve ever tasted. Months later, I’m still dreaming about it.

Spring lamb & peas at Piperno, Rome

I ordered the lamb at this famous restaurant in the Jewish Quarter near Via del Portico  d’Ottavia. The chops were grilled to crisp-yet-juicy perfection and paired with peas so sweet I had to enquire of the chef if sugar had been added. I was informed that spring was sweet-pea time, leaving me in no doubt that this was the real deal.

Agnolotti del plin at Trattoria della Posta, Monforte d’Alba, Italy

Imagine a mini ravioli stuffed with roast rabbit, pork and veal. Tender and firm in the same bite, these little parcels of flavour are a revelation. The meat is sweet and subtle, and the pasta itself is gently tossed in a hint of butter.

Tacos at Leo’s Taco Truck, Los Angeles

On the hunt for the City of Angels’ best tacos, I stumbled upon Leo’s, located by a petrol (or, as they say, gas) station at the intersection of Venice and La Brea. Leo’s is justifiably famous for tacos. The meat was awesome, the taco fresh-rolled and the hot chilli sauce the icing on the cake. Did I mention that each taco cost only a dollar?

Goat’s milk ricotta at Salumeria Roscioli, Rome

Being a deli, Roscioli has prosciutto by the mile and anchovies by the jar, but the freshly made goat’s milk ricotta stole my heart. There is no more delicious prelude to a leisurely lunch in Rome.

Braised chicken with noodles & chilli at Kiroran Silk Road, Sydney

Back in my home town, I’ve fallen in love with Uygur cuisine from north-west China. Kiroran Silk Road offers cheap, simple fare, including a one-plater of braised chicken with noodles, potatoes and a sauce made from tomatoes, cumin, chilli and star anise. Wonderful stuff.

 Pannacotta with berries at Rosetta, Melbourne

My former executive pastry chef, Catherine Adams, has concocted many memorable desserts over the years, none more so than her pannacotta with berries. Simple yet sublime, the combination of fresh fruit and melt-in-the-mouth pannacotta is pure summer.

Plate of cured meats at Eataly NY, New York

Mario Batali continues to reign supreme with the hugely popular Eataly. The rooftop birreria (beer garden) is the logical place to enjoy a selection of salumi with prosciutto di San Daniele and Parma, speck and mortadella.

Raw veal with radicchio at The River Café, London

This year at one of my favourite restaurants, I tried the raw veal with radicchio as an entree. A classic Piedmont dish, it was a lesson in precision both in the quality of the ingredients and the technique displayed in the careful slicing of the meat.


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